Horses That Spook: Teaching Relaxation
Good morning this is Will Faerber from Art2Ride and I am here with my good friend Bailador, who you’ve seen in previous videos before. Today I thought I would spend a little time talking about horses that spook.
Very often in horses that come to us we find (and especially the big and powerful ones) that they have gotten into the hands of riders that are not very experienced who are afraid of them, and they begin to spook at every little thing. Pretty soon they can’t go around the ring without spooking ten times, and then they start dumping people. So now I am going to explain how you deal with it.
One of the things that I want to point out is relaxation (like doing a shoulder in or a half pass), it is a skill that we have to teach the horses. The biggest mistake that people make, especially when they get a hold of these big horses that have amazing movement and big waves, is when they feel them spook or get up tight a little bit they stop and pet them on the neck to try and calm them down. The problem with that is, as soon as you stop and pet them on the neck, you have basically rewarded them for spooking. The number one thing no matter what a horse is doing is to keep them working and never stop and let them stand there and look at it. That is the worst thing you can possibly do. You want to act like whatever they are looking at is no problem to you, stay relaxed, and act like whatever they are spooking at isn’t there. You never want to get into a fight with your horse forcing them to face something. The best thing to do is to do a shoulder in by it so they can’t look at it directly and you can get them into the outside rein and get them to pass it. The main thing that I want to point out here is that we must train for relaxation as a skill. Very often I see people work horses till they are a little relaxed, then they get on their horses and it starts to spook and they get into a fight. We don’t ever want to get into a fight with our horses, we want to put ourselves in a position to win these battles.
There are two types of horses that spook: horses that are really afraid, and then horses that have learned to spook at things as an evasion to get out of the work. This is usually because someone is afraid of the horse and as soon as they spook, they stop and pet them on the neck. As soon as you do that with a horse, they quickly learn to put two and two together. Remember, a horses goal is to get you to stop riding, that is why they buck people off because they would rather not do this. We want to make it a pleasant experience for them and never let them gain control over us through this spooking thing.
A good example for these types of horses like Bailador and Zoolander who spook at the tent we have near our arena is to keep them walking on a loose rein until they relax. When I first started these horses, I don’t worry about their frame or how much they are learning or try any new moves, we just have to get them to accept the work and come out and relax. This starts on the lunge line, getting them to stretch down into the contact and as soon as they relax we finish, instead of doing more and more. Bailador was a horse who would spook and then try to stop on us, and if you didn’t let him stop he would throw a temper tantrum. I stopped that behavior by not making any physical demands, except to move forward ahead of my leg (which of course is the whip when lunging) into my hand (which is the contact with the line). As soon as the horse relaxes, then I am done for the day. I repeat this process the next day, getting him to relax and then I get on him and he has to relax all the way down. I am not trying to move the horse up the levels quickly, I am trying to instill this foundation, which is to have the horse relax. If the horse is working in tension, you are never going to get anything good. So I just get the horse to relax and forget about anything else. The goal is to get the horse to accept the work, stay in the work and to realize that if he just relaxes and gets in the zone (which is where he is not looking at everything and is relaxed with the rider) that is what we want. I train for that skill alone until I have it, then I can begin to make more demands on the horse as his physical development progresses (topline).
I have had horses that have taken me hours and hours to get them to relax. For example, Bailador’s first lesson was upwards of two hours to get him to relax in the ring. One of the cardinal rules is to never let a nervous or uptight horse leave the ring. No matter how uptight and nervous the horse is when they enter the ring, we want to work for that relaxation and never leave the ring until the horse is completely relaxed and stretching down on a lunge line no matter how long that may take. That is the skill that we are teaching: we are teaching the horse to work in relaxation.
How do you tell if a horse is really afraid? A horse that is really afraid will start to shake and you will feel them quiver. If you ever feel a horse do that while you are on them, get off immediately! Has the horse won the day? No, because what you are going to do is immediately get the horse on the lunge line and get them to relax and work through the problem rather then fight them. A horse that is shaking is dangerous! I have seen horses jump off cliffs with people, run in front of cars, and I have seen them flip out to the point of having spasms and leaping into the air like a lunatic. It is no fun to be on those kind of horses. So if you ever feel a horse shake with you, that is a horse that is really afraid and that is a time that you do want to get off and get them on a lunge line until they relax. The point is you have to get the horse to work relaxed in the ring.
Usually horses spook on accident the first time, and if you stop and pet them on the neck, the horse has learned that it will get rewarded for that behavior. Just keep working, even if it’s at a walk. What we don’t want to happen, which we see so many people doing, is to fight with the horse to the point of the horse’s exhaustion. You have to learn the difference between a horse that is relaxed and a horse that is exhausted. You don’t want to bring a horse to exhaustion every day. A horse that is exhausted will never learn to stop spooking, in fact it will take longer to work the horse down if that is how you you’re going about it. When a horse is totally exhausted, that is when injuries start to happen.
So once again this is Will Faerber from Art2Ride talking about the spooky horse. Hope this helps and we will see you next time!
10 responses to “Horses That Spook: Teaching Relaxation”
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Nicole G says: I understand the idea of getting the horse to move forward and past the scary object/place, but am wondering how to go about getting them relaxed, if he just keeps shooting past hollowed out and gaining speed every time. How do you keep a horse from getting exhausted, if he will not slow? It seems that he will just work himself up into a frenzy. You mentioned that it took Bailador 2 hours to get relaxed. I would love to see a video on what that looks like, especially if you work a horse that has not been worked that much.
Thanks, Nicole
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Kali says:
Bailador was a hyper fit when I began working him and would run with riders for hours so he was fit and that is the problem. That is why if you have a problem horse off the track for instance, you just turn them out for a few months until they lose all that aerobic fitness. When it comes to a problem spooker, you have to wait them out once they start the spooking act, if you ever give in you are lost! Just keep doing what you’re doing without any reaction other than to bend them away from whatever they are spooking at. You must never get angry with the horse but just be there without emotion and wait them out. Sooner or later they will tire and begin trying to stop, always send them on a little bit more and then stop and get off. If they are hot, walk them out by hand. Once you get to that point once, the next time will be easier. Now if you feel that the horse will run itself to death or has old injuries that could be reignited by lunging, just walk them, but remember, you must never let a nervous horse leave the ring! If you do, they will associate their behavior with getting what they want, which is to go home to it’s stablemates. Take all the time it takes and be patient!
Nancy Berg says: I have been using relaxation as the goal when I lunge my OTTB horse b/c he spooked at everything and bolted so I was glad to run across your blog that helped reassure me that I am on the right path. However, while I have been successful with longing my horse until he relaxed and stop, just as you wrote about, he has a bigger problem that I’m not sure how to deal with. I cannot ride him with most other horses in the arena or if they are jumping outside of the dressage arena. He becomes so unfocused and crazy that it is dangerous to be on his back. Any suggestions since the longing for relaxation doesn’t transfer to this situation?
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Answered by Associate Trainer Elisabeth: My first question to you would be : has your horse been backed or ridden already? If no, you may need to seek professional help for that specifically. Other than that, don’t ride him until you trust that you won’t get hurt. Your horse spooks for a reason and you need to find why. The causes can be that he is not strong enough to carry a rider (how old is he, for how long have you been working on the lunge, is he able to walk, trot and canter on the lunge?). Also, pain which is a major cause for spooking can come from an ill fitted saddle, has your saddle been properly fitted? Improper shoeing can also cause pain problems and there are several other possible causes. In other words, you need to find the cause for his behavior. Fear also leads to spooking obviously. Young horses have difficulties coping with complexity: so a nervous rider, or an agitated environment plus different demands like go forward, trot or stop, can be too much to handle ; you need to keep things (aids) very simple at the beginning. So, you are right about relaxation and stretch on the lunge but to help you more effectively I would need more information, or some pictures or better still a short video via our critique service of your work with your horse.
Heather says: I have an 8 yr old Oldenburg gelding that I bred and ride 5 days a week. His poll was yanked out of place by the trainer that backed him and it affected his vision but took a year to figure out the problem so he lost a lot of confidence and I spent that time maintaining his spooks and working on relaxation. I didn’t back him until he was 5 1/2 because he is over 17 hands and was not ready mentally or physically until then. He is a playful, sensitive cocky gelding but at the same time is insecure in the arenas and in general. This started when I moved and had to board him. At home he was confident. He is a button pusher and playful, very social with people and the same with his pasture mates. Normal corrections don’t work for him (he will nip trying to play even if he gets smacked, he doesn’t care. I have to redirect his energy and taught him to touch vs bite etc. you have to always be 10 steps ahead of him. He has manners and knows the rules but likes to see what he can get away with. He is worse with other horses in the arena, wanting to focus on them and then he starts spooking or trying to leap around. I can and do work him through this every single day to the point of relaxation. He trusts me and will do what I ask but every day we start over. I adore him and ride him well, but I’d like him to gain confidence. I’ve done all the desensitization stuff and can get him relaxed but every day we start over. He does not have ulcers, his saddle is fitted, I do body work, I have put him back to barefoot with flex boots since regular shoes were causing pain, so we are on the second cycle of this and he is way happier – yay Flexboots and the Easyboot love child glue ons. Any suggestions?
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What will solve all of those problems generally is getting horse to work correctly over it’s back and that I can’t tell from what you’re telling me here. If you send a video and you can even just put it on the site or you can sign up for a critique with me and do it that way, but without seeing that for myself it’s impossible to answer your question. If you are not a member of our fans and followers site on Facebook I suggest you join that and you can post a video there and I will see it there and comment and give you some constructive ideas based on how the horse is going. It sounds to me as if the horse has never gotten a correct start in his training just because you can get on it and ride it does not mean that it’s working correctly or in a way that’s going to settle its mind . We would be happy to help you if you post video thanks again.
Ruby Maur says: I’ve got a paint gelding that is very spooky. He’s fine with his herd mates but by himself he’s a messy. Taking him out of his paddock is a big deal and even walking down to the arena is a task itself. Once we’re in the arena I can do very basic stuff with him but only in certain parts other why he’s a spooky mess. I’ve tried everything but will give this a go for sure. Is there any tips for a horse that is spooky outside of the arena ?
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Work them first in the arena until they are very calm, and then work them only a little ways away and come back again, and gradually only very gradually increase the distance in which you take the horse away after working them in the arena.
Dana Alley says: I love this article, and It’s very helpful and informative. I have a full Arab gelding who I’ve raised and trained myself. He’s 6 now. I can get him relaxed by lunging and riding. He’ll drop his head and will work on a loose rein. However, there is a part of my outdoor area that will just cause him to lose his ever-loving mind…well…sort of. He’ll mini-bolt left or right if he hears a stick snap or a leave rattle or the chain clinks just right in the wind. I stick with him pretty well, but over time, I’m getting nervous coming around this particular corner. That could be affecting him too, I’m sure. It’s like a self-fulfilling prophecy. What can I do to correct this? We’ll have 8 area rounds with no issue, and then all of a sudden, he jumps me out of my skin. Help!
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Lunging him there before you ride and letting him really settle before you get on could help. I would spend a lot of time walking through there so that he can’t surprise you so quickly and jump out from underneath you that is you can be ready for it. But I have seen areas in areas like this where they have an opening and random things pop up. It’s just very hard but some horses to get them over that once it starts becoming a problem for both of you as the rider then gets nervous and it becomes a self perpetuating thing. Is there anyway you can eliminate the issue area? Light it better or enclose it?
I understand the idea of getting the horse to move forward and past the scary object/place, but am wondering how to go about getting them relaxed, if he just keeps shooting past hollowed out and gaining speed every time. How do you keep a horse from getting exhausted, if he will not slow? It seems that he will just work himself up into a frenzy. You mentioned that it took Bailador 2 hours to get relaxed. I would love to see a video on what that looks like, especially if you work a horse that has not been worked that much.
Thanks, Nicole
Bailador was a hyper fit when I began working him and would run with riders for hours so he was fit and that is the problem. That is why if you have a problem horse off the track for instance, you just turn them out for a few months until they lose all that aerobic fitness. When it comes to a problem spooker, you have to wait them out once they start the spooking act, if you ever give in you are lost! Just keep doing what you’re doing without any reaction other than to bend them away from whatever they are spooking at. You must never get angry with the horse but just be there without emotion and wait them out. Sooner or later they will tire and begin trying to stop, always send them on a little bit more and then stop and get off. If they are hot, walk them out by hand. Once you get to that point once, the next time will be easier. Now if you feel that the horse will run itself to death or has old injuries that could be reignited by lunging, just walk them, but remember, you must never let a nervous horse leave the ring! If you do, they will associate their behavior with getting what they want, which is to go home to it’s stablemates. Take all the time it takes and be patient!
I have been using relaxation as the goal when I lunge my OTTB horse b/c he spooked at everything and bolted so I was glad to run across your blog that helped reassure me that I am on the right path. However, while I have been successful with longing my horse until he relaxed and stop, just as you wrote about, he has a bigger problem that I’m not sure how to deal with. I cannot ride him with most other horses in the arena or if they are jumping outside of the dressage arena. He becomes so unfocused and crazy that it is dangerous to be on his back. Any suggestions since the longing for relaxation doesn’t transfer to this situation?
Answered by Associate Trainer Elisabeth: My first question to you would be : has your horse been backed or ridden already? If no, you may need to seek professional help for that specifically. Other than that, don’t ride him until you trust that you won’t get hurt. Your horse spooks for a reason and you need to find why. The causes can be that he is not strong enough to carry a rider (how old is he, for how long have you been working on the lunge, is he able to walk, trot and canter on the lunge?). Also, pain which is a major cause for spooking can come from an ill fitted saddle, has your saddle been properly fitted? Improper shoeing can also cause pain problems and there are several other possible causes. In other words, you need to find the cause for his behavior. Fear also leads to spooking obviously. Young horses have difficulties coping with complexity: so a nervous rider, or an agitated environment plus different demands like go forward, trot or stop, can be too much to handle ; you need to keep things (aids) very simple at the beginning. So, you are right about relaxation and stretch on the lunge but to help you more effectively I would need more information, or some pictures or better still a short video via our critique service of your work with your horse.
I have an 8 yr old Oldenburg gelding that I bred and ride 5 days a week. His poll was yanked out of place by the trainer that backed him and it affected his vision but took a year to figure out the problem so he lost a lot of confidence and I spent that time maintaining his spooks and working on relaxation. I didn’t back him until he was 5 1/2 because he is over 17 hands and was not ready mentally or physically until then. He is a playful, sensitive cocky gelding but at the same time is insecure in the arenas and in general. This started when I moved and had to board him. At home he was confident. He is a button pusher and playful, very social with people and the same with his pasture mates. Normal corrections don’t work for him (he will nip trying to play even if he gets smacked, he doesn’t care. I have to redirect his energy and taught him to touch vs bite etc. you have to always be 10 steps ahead of him. He has manners and knows the rules but likes to see what he can get away with. He is worse with other horses in the arena, wanting to focus on them and then he starts spooking or trying to leap around. I can and do work him through this every single day to the point of relaxation. He trusts me and will do what I ask but every day we start over. I adore him and ride him well, but I’d like him to gain confidence. I’ve done all the desensitization stuff and can get him relaxed but every day we start over. He does not have ulcers, his saddle is fitted, I do body work, I have put him back to barefoot with flex boots since regular shoes were causing pain, so we are on the second cycle of this and he is way happier – yay Flexboots and the Easyboot love child glue ons. Any suggestions?
What will solve all of those problems generally is getting horse to work correctly over it’s back and that I can’t tell from what you’re telling me here. If you send a video and you can even just put it on the site or you can sign up for a critique with me and do it that way, but without seeing that for myself it’s impossible to answer your question. If you are not a member of our fans and followers site on Facebook I suggest you join that and you can post a video there and I will see it there and comment and give you some constructive ideas based on how the horse is going. It sounds to me as if the horse has never gotten a correct start in his training just because you can get on it and ride it does not mean that it’s working correctly or in a way that’s going to settle its mind . We would be happy to help you if you post video thanks again.
I’ve got a paint gelding that is very spooky. He’s fine with his herd mates but by himself he’s a messy. Taking him out of his paddock is a big deal and even walking down to the arena is a task itself. Once we’re in the arena I can do very basic stuff with him but only in certain parts other why he’s a spooky mess. I’ve tried everything but will give this a go for sure. Is there any tips for a horse that is spooky outside of the arena ?
Work them first in the arena until they are very calm, and then work them only a little ways away and come back again, and gradually only very gradually increase the distance in which you take the horse away after working them in the arena.
I love this article, and It’s very helpful and informative. I have a full Arab gelding who I’ve raised and trained myself. He’s 6 now. I can get him relaxed by lunging and riding. He’ll drop his head and will work on a loose rein. However, there is a part of my outdoor area that will just cause him to lose his ever-loving mind…well…sort of. He’ll mini-bolt left or right if he hears a stick snap or a leave rattle or the chain clinks just right in the wind. I stick with him pretty well, but over time, I’m getting nervous coming around this particular corner. That could be affecting him too, I’m sure. It’s like a self-fulfilling prophecy. What can I do to correct this? We’ll have 8 area rounds with no issue, and then all of a sudden, he jumps me out of my skin. Help!
Lunging him there before you ride and letting him really settle before you get on could help. I would spend a lot of time walking through there so that he can’t surprise you so quickly and jump out from underneath you that is you can be ready for it. But I have seen areas in areas like this where they have an opening and random things pop up. It’s just very hard but some horses to get them over that once it starts becoming a problem for both of you as the rider then gets nervous and it becomes a self perpetuating thing. Is there anyway you can eliminate the issue area? Light it better or enclose it?